LURE OF THE LYRE
The Lyre River flows from Lake Crescent and journeys through two magnificent canyons before reaching the Straits of Juan De Fuca. Not fed by glaciers, the lake is nourished by crystal clear streams; creating a body of water always transparent. These waters become the origin of the Lyre River, discharging excess flows from the lake. The Lyre keeps the lucid appearance of its source the entire path on its pilgrimage to the sea.
The river was named by British Admiralty surveyor Henry Kellett in 1846. The river’s mouth discovered in 1790 by Spanish explorer Manuel Quimper called it "Rio de cuesta," meaning "river from hill." How did Kellett christen "Lyre" to this brilliant stream? The answer is unknown. The term "lyre" is a Greek term referring to a stringed musical instrument used in many ancient Greek recitations. There seems to be many different versions of this string implement, but most "lyres" are similar in appearance to a small harp.
Many of our streams on the Olympic Peninsula have names with Native American origins, the Lyre River not being one of them. Why a British surveyor came up with a Greek title will always be a mystery. This is my interpretation:
This river is illusive, mystic, spiritual and unfathomable. Falling from the lake approximately 6-1/2 miles to the sea the river cascades through two long canyons and many smaller gorges. Not open valleys; they are hidden with a lining of old growth Douglas fir, hemlock, maple, cedar, and Sitka spruce. Access today is limited just as it was in the 1800’s. Our hiking group has trekked most of the river’s length from afar. Hiking high above the canyons we are teased with occasional peeks beneath. Always the audible of the escaping flow on its hurried sojourn; we are not allowed a respectable view. Bewildered by our visional limitations, one can only surmise what beauty lies below.
This was the experience Henry Kellett encountered. Maybe the hindrance of sight turned his senses to the echo of the tumbling water. It sounded like the timbre of a lyre. At the same time he observed an awe-inspiring rainbow reflecting through the mist off the canyon walls. This arched phenomenon reminded him of the curvature frames on some lyres. Yes, this river was destined to become The Lyre River.
As referenced above, even today the adventurer has limited accessibility to this majestic river. Not counting Piedmont where the river begins, there is only one public entry. It is located off Hwy 112 on the East Lyre River Rd. Fortunately a DNR campground is positioned right on the river’s edge. A place where families can camp, fish and enjoy this magical river. The same luxury I experienced as a child with my family at this same location.
Over the years I have tried to conquer the mysteries this stream holds without success. Logging has taken place on both sides of this flow, but never into the gulches. The old growth as been spared, hopefully for an eternity. This is the way it should stay, an enigma of our past.
The lure of the Lyre, a spiritual enchantment that leaves us captive even today.
Ted Bedford March 2009
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